Operating Instructions For The S/S Continuous Loop Wheel
The S/S continuous loop wheel can be installed on the motor shaft of the
lure machine in two ways as described below. Care needs to be taken when
mounting the wheel onto the flat spot of the motor shaft. The wheel is supplied
with a 5/16" hex head bolt. If the bolt is tightened with "excessive force"
using a 1/2" box or ratchet wrench, it is possible to break the hub where the
split in the hub is located. I say "excessive force" because the hub can be
safely installed without tightening the bolt to the point of breaking the hub.
I have chosen to use a split hub (as opposed to a solid hub) for two very good
reasons. Every now and then, the wheel is left on the shaft and it rusts to the
shaft and is very difficult to remove. Also, occasionally, the bolt is not
tightened down onto the flat spot, but rather, it is tightened down onto the
shaft which creates a burr on the motor shaft. This makes the wheel nearly
impossible to remove without doing serious damage to the wheel. With the split
hub, it is possible to break the hub by driving a cold chisel or a screw driver
into the slots. Now of course, you will need to replace the hub, but the
expensive wheel has been saved from damage.
Please be advised that I do not warrant or guarantee the hub of this wheel
against breakage. If the hub breaks for any reason, the wheel needs to be
returned to Injoy for replacement at the current price in effect at the time
plus shipping.
The S/S continuous loop wheel has a hub with a 5/8" bore and is designed to be
used with a Ford starter motor having a long shaft with a 1/4" hole in the end
of the shaft. The wheel can be installed in one of two ways.
The first method allows the wheel to be mounted on the motor shaft near the lure
stand. This method is currently preferred because it puts less stress on the
motor bearings and provides a more secure mounting. In order to mount the S/S
wheel in this manner, you will need to file a flat spot on the motor shaft. To
accomplish this, remove the 1/4" bolt and nylock nut from the hub and back out
the 5/16" threaded bolt so that the wheel will slip onto the shaft of the motor.
Position the wheel near the lure stand leaving a 1/2" or so between the rim of
the wheel and the lure stand. Mark the shaft of the motor at the end of the hub
and remove the wheel. Now file a flat spot about 3/8" square and about 3/32"
deep (below the surface of the motor shaft). When installing the wheel, be sure
the end of the bolt in the hub of the wheel is tightened down onto the flat
spot. If you just tighten the bolt down onto the shaft, it will cause a burr on
the shaft and you may not be able to remove the wheel from the shaft.
The alternative and commonly used method for installing this style wheel is to
slide it onto the shaft and align the holes in the hub of the wheel with the
hole in the end of the motor shaft. Using the 1/4" bolt and nylock nut provided
with the wheel, insert the bolt through the holes in the hub and the hole in the
end of the motor shaft. Attach the nylock nut to the 1/4" bolt and tighten the
nut all the way down to the hub. DO NOT substitute a non-locking nut for the
nylock nut. A non-locking nut could loosen under use and fly off the bolt
causing injury to a bystander. Also, if you use this method for installing the
S/S wheel, you should remove the 5/16" threaded bolt used in method 1 explained
above.
Once you have installed the wheel, you need to position the lure machine so that
the string is in a straight line with the groove in the wheel. For the lure
machine to drive the string there must be some tension on the string. The amount
of tension required varies with each course setup and the weather conditions.
The S/S continuous loop wheel requires from 8 to 12 lbs. of string tension. You
can measure the string tension using a fisherman's scale or laboratory spring
scale that will weigh up to 25 lbs.
To predetermine the amount of string tension, take the free end of the string
and bring it together with the string coming from the take up wheel (thus
forming a "continuous loop") and bring it back to the lure machine. Do not cut
the string and tie the two ends together just yet. All you are attempting to do,
at this point, is to gauge the amount of tension or force on the string.
When you have determined that the starting tension is about right, you can cut
the string coming from the take up wheel at the point where you are holding the
string and join the two ends by tying a knot to form the continuous loop. Place
the string on the continuous loop wheel and jog the switch to see if the
continuous wheel drives the string. If the string doubles over on itself or
slips when the wheel turns, there is not adequate tension on the line. To
correct this condition you need to shorten the string in one of several ways.
The method most frequently used is to cut a length of string out of the loop
which shortens the string and increases the tension. You can also move the lure
machine back or move a pulley in such a way as to increase the length of the
course. Both of these actions will have the same effect as shortening the string
and will increase the tension transmitted to the wheel.
After running a few courses, it is not unusual for the string to double over on
itself on the continuous loop wheel or it may start slipping on the wheel. This
is due to the string stretching and the course redirecting the string into
straight lines between the corner pulleys. (We all have a tendency to weave a
little when setting up a course.) To correct this situation you will need to go
through the same process mentioned above...move a pulley or cut a 6 to 9 foot
piece of string out of the loop.
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