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the long one, the motor, and a 3/8" hex bolt. Insert
the bolt through the hole in the motor face plate and install the long brass
strip on the bolt before threading it into the stand...do not fully tighten the
bolt but just snug it up to the base of the motor by hand. (See picture)
You should still be able to move the brass strip around, so move the exposed
hole over to the first mounting hole for the solenoid. Bending the strip
is a little funky but whatever works is OK. The purpose of these brass
strips are to provide an electrical ground to the solenoids and other
components.

motor.
You may have to wrestle with bending the end of the wire a little. Once
you have the bolt in place, you can fully tighten all three of the motor
mounting bolts. You can also install the two wire ties to hold the black
wire in place. (See Picture)
connect the motor to the solenoids. Remove the nut and lock washer from
the motor stud and position the wire on the stud and install the washer and nut
only finger tight.
but leave
loose for now. Place the short brass strip over the two holes in the base
of the winch so that the bases of the two solenoids will be electrically
connected when they are assembled to the winch base. Place the solenoids
over the short brass strip and the long brass strip
coming from the motor base.
You can install the three 1/4" bolts in the holes where the brass strips are
located to mount the solenoids...do not fully tighten. You can now connect
the red 1/0 ga. wire from the motor to the left most solenoid terminal (as you
face the solenoids).
Installing a voltmeter is described here...if you are not installing a
voltmeter, skip to the next paragraph. Remove the voltmeter from the
mounting plate...just unscrew the retaining collar. Use the mounting
plate
as a template to drill two 3/16" holes in the disconnect switch bracket as shown
in the picture. Mount the face plate to the disconnect switch bracket
using the two 10-32 screws, lock washer and nut. If the wires are not
installed, install the red wire to the "+" terminal and the brown wire to the
"-" terminal. Now install the voltmeter to the face plate using the
retaining collar.
and remove the handle. Remove the big top nut
from the threaded shaft and leave the lock washer on the switch. Next,
remove the nuts and lock washers from the disconnect switch terminals. Insert
the threaded shaft in the mounting hole, place the face plate on the shaft and
finger tighten the big nut. You may need to adjust the nut under the
bracket to have the right amount of threaded shaft exposed for the top nut.
Place the handle on the switch so you can orientate the face plate with the
handle pointer. Leave everything loose for now.
the gray Anderson connector, to the right most solenoid stud.
Place the "L" copper piece supplied by Tim over the eyelet(s) on the solenoid
stud and at the same time rotate the disconnect switch so that the copper piece
can be installed on the switch. Install the nuts and lock washers and now
you can tighten all of the solenoid nuts and solenoid mounting fasteners.
REMEMBER, THE SOLENOID AND MOTOR STUDS ARE COPPER, you can not tighten them to
the same torque as a steel bolt. Too much torque and you can strip the
threads...believe me, when you do that it ruins your day! Be sure to
tighten the nut on the motor stud and make any needed adjustments to the
disconnect switch plate before tightening the big nut. Don’t forget to
install the retaining
screw in the handle on the disconnect switch.